Here is a list of some of our favorite spots to eat, have a café or a glass of wine (or pastiche), or just watch people.
Rue des Abbesses
Beth's favorite place is the classic brasserie and seafood restaurant, La Mascotte. Ben prepares fresh oysters in front where the selectiosn of exotic fruits de mer are displayed. The copper bar in front is a popular meeting place for neighborhood locals, (including Beth) – the local expiates who drop in on Sundays call it “The Chapel”. The large restaurant behind offers some of the best seafood in Paris.
Au Relais Gascon just up the street is a very popular place. They specialize in Gascon cuisine. It is a bit too heavy on chips for our taste, but is a real experience if you can get in. If you go, give our regards to Mumu, the owner and you may receive a complimentary kir aperitif.
Le St. Jean. If there is room, find a table on the sidewalk, order a drink and watch the Montmartoise go by. This is another brasserie. The food is good, but not fancy. If you haven’t tried a Croque Monsieur (A hot open face ham and cheese sandwich), this is the place to try one. If you ask for a “Croque Madame” they add a fried egg on top.
Le Vrai de Paris and Le Sancerre are two more cafés on rue des Abbesses. They are similar to Le St Jean. The atmosphere can be loud and smoky, but their food is surprisingly good.
Al Caratello. On little rue Adran, connecting rue Abbesses with rue Véron is a favorite Italian restaurant. It is usually crowded, so call ahead if you want to be sure of a table. The pasta is wonderful, but I have a difficult time passing up the veal dishes. 01.42.62.24.23
Café Houdon on the corner of rue Houdon is one of our favorites. Franck, the owner is usually on had to greet his customers Inga provides great service behind the bar. There often is live jazz. The confit de canard and the veal dishes are especially good. If feeling adventurous try the beef tarter.
Speaking of tarter, Sans Souci just down from Place Picalle specializes in it. They tend to have a younger crowd, with great American music.
Rue Lepic
(This is a bit confusing: rue des Abbesses becomes rue Lepic where the two meet, even though it is rue Lepic that makes the turn.)
Le Zebre further down the street is where the young and oftentimes beautiful meet. Jean Yves the chef offers a delicious menu of French classics including moeulleux, a soft beef dish, great spareribs and wonderful salads. His chocolate mouse is excellent.
La Rughetta, #41 just around the turn, is another excellent Italian restaurant. Our favorite is the veal citron. To guarantee a place we recommend calling ahead, 01.42.23.41.70.
Bar Lux. Down the hill towards the bottom of rue Lepic is a great place to just sit and watch people, especially on a busy shopping day.
Across the rue is the Café Deux Moulins of Amilie fame. It’s a bit more expensive, and at times is filled with Japanese tourists. Stick with the Bar Lux.
Café Houdon on the corner of rue Houdon is one of our favorites. Franck, the owner is usually on had to greet his customers Inga provides great service behind the bar. There often is live jazz. The confit de canard and the veal dishes are especially good. If feeling adventurous try the beef tarter.
Speaking of tarter, Sans Souci, not on Abbesses, but just down past Place Pigalle specializes in it. They tend to have a younger crowd, with great American music.
Rue Véron
Chez Ammad. Down toward the end is Chez Ammad, underneath the “Grand Hotel de Clarmont”, 18m rue Veron. This is a small, very local place, perhaps not for the timid. It is a place where you can play chess, chat with the locals and enjoy the always hospitable Ammad and his two sons. It’s an especially great place on New Years Eve. On any night the real crowds arrive after midnight.
La Colibri. (the hummingbird) 35, Rue Véron. This is our favorite small restaurant in the neighborhood. The lunches are exquisite and reasonably priced. It definitely has local character and is not fancy, but is always a wonderful experience. On the weekends they have live music, varying from French chanteurs and chanteuses to rock. We strongly recommend that you give it a try.
Nearby
Le Progress. After dinner, walk down to Place Charles Dullin. Le Progress is a perfect place for an after dinner drink. Crowded, noisy, with perhaps the largest windows in Paris. Loud live music sets the scene.
Just up rue des Trois Freres has several good restaurants, but they can be difficult to get into without a reservation.
Over the Hill
If you walk up the butte to see the sights, you may want to wander down the other side where the “Marie” of the 18eme is located. It is a delightful area, and away from tourists
Le Nord Sud. A classic brasserie, but with food equal in quality to a very good restaurant. There is usually a lot of hustle and bustle. Lunch is served all afternoon, so if you find yourself hungry after the usual Parisian lunch hour – when most places are closed – head this way. If you are not hungry, it is still a wonderful place to people watch – one of the favorite Parisian pastimes. It is located on a very busy square with a church, merry-go-round and busy metro station.
Le Refuge is just across from the Lamarck-Calaincourt metro station. The last time we were there a film company was using it for a set. The food is good, and the atmosphere is warm and friendly.
Down the hill.
Chartier. Don’t miss having lunch in this classic restaurant frequented by Parisians taking their break from work. This busy place is Paris. It is located on rue du faubourg Montmartre, about a twenty minute walk down the hill. It is down a little lane of its own, just before the Blvd. Montmartre, and is easy to miss. After you pass through the revolving doors, you will be asked, perhaps a bit briskly “Combien de personnes?” Then you will be seated at a table probably shared by busy Parisians. It is all very friendly and conversation flows freely. The waiter will scribble your order on the paper table cloth. The seafood is especially good; the escargot in my humble opinion is the best in Paris!